Normandy travel diary, from Cherbourg to Rouen
A warm welcome and jam-packed with French history
This chapter of our language travel diary takes us back to Normandy to visit two legendary cities between land and sea: Cherbourg and Rouen. Let’s join French teacher Mia and her group of Italian students on their language journey in a region whose history, food and drink conquered her heart. Here are her most magical moments.
Cherbourg: The first unexpected surprise in Normandy
None of us could believe the impressive maritime history and infrastructures in Cherbourg-en-Cotentin. It’s a spell-binding city and I’ll never forget our walk in the medieval district: the narrow lanes, or boëls, are like secret passages tucked away in the city centre. We had a completely different change of scene when we got to the harbour with its stunning views of the Presqu’Île du Cotentin peninsula.
La Cité de la Mer trip
La Cité de la Mer is a former transatlantic ferry port. The beautifully-restored Art Déco building saw millions of passengers set sail for the New World in the late 20th century from here and the museum shares their lives with us. The students were struck dumb by the Redoutable nuclear submarine and Titanic, Return to Cherbourg exhibition about the infamous liner’s stop in the city.
Picnic in Parc Emmanuel Liais
We had a stroll and picnic under the June sunshine in Parc Emmanuel Liais, named after a French explorer, botanist and geographer who was born and died in Cherbourg. We cooled off among the exotic and local species in the botanical garden before exploring rare plant collections and visiting the hothouses. Cherbourg is exotic to say the least, with as many as 1000 palm trees imported by 19th century explorers which thrive in the city’s mild climate.
Fort du Roule and Musée de la Libération
We visited the Musée de la Libération at Fort du Roule on a hilltop with incredible views of Cherbourg. The museum introduces visitors to World War II and the Liberation of Cherbourg with information, images and videos. We learnt how war vehicles and equipment were constantly dropped off in Cherbourg Port before being whisked away on the high seas. The stories and media resources really struck a chord!
Manufacture des Parapluies de Cherbourg umbrella factory and film
Our trip to the Manufacture des Parapluies de Cherbourg was a big hit! The umbrellas have been a cult accessory since starring in the film of the same name directed by Jacques Demy. We saw the traditional methods and craftsmanship that go into making the iconic umbrellas at the factory itself. Each and every umbrella is painstakingly handmade! What a wonderful gift made in France to take home in your suitcase!
Rouen: Historical hotspot, from Joan of Arc to Maupassant
The cobbled streets and historical landmarks make Rouen a real Normandy treasure trove. We unearthed its gems on several trips.
Rouen, the City of Bell Towers
You won’t believe how many bell towers and tall landmarks call Rouen home. Just take Notre-Dame Cathedral with its Gothic architecture and spire (more recent) peaking at 151m, making Rouen’s cathedral the tallest in France and the third tallest in Europe! The students loved it for its sheer size, attention to detail and staggering stained glass windows… but it wasn’t everyone’s cup of tea. Normandy’s very own Maupassant called it a “bronze spike that’s surprising, ugly, strange and out of proportion.”
We also visited the flamboyant Gothic gem that is Saint-Maclou Church and the show-stopping Saint-Ouen Abbey.
Place du Vieux-Marché and Joan of Arc
Our next stop was Place du Vieux-Marché, where Joan of Arc was executed. It was a golden opportunity to revisit the story behind France’s legendary warrior: Joan was a pious shepherd girl who heard voices telling her to liberate occupied France from English rule. She embraced her destiny and joined the future King Charles VII in Touraine during the Hundred Years’ War, dressed as a man with her hair cut short. She fought in the decisive battle against the English in Orléans which saw Charles VII crowned king at Reims Cathedral in 1429. But she was defeated in Paris, made a prisoner of war, sold to the English and imprisoned at their headquarters in Rouen. She was put on trial for heresy and sentenced to be burnt at the stake! She was burnt alive on May 30th 1431 on Place du Vieux Marché in Rouen. The tragedy and injustice made their mark on the city square and our students’ hearts.
Jardin des Plantes de Rouen
Picnic break at the Jardin des Plantes! After stocking up on nibbles in town, we settled down in a haven of peace home to plants from five continents. The greenhouse is over 170 years old! The students were particularly fascinated by the carnivorous plants… Watching plants eating small insects isn’t your standard entertainment. There’s something magical about the place and we could have spent hours here! What with the aviaries filled with budgies, parrots, king quails, peacocks and turtles roaming free by the canal, everyone enjoyed their time out in a bountiful botanical world!
Following in the footsteps of Guy de Maupassant in Rouen’s streets
Rouen was one of the biggest and most opulent cities in medieval Europe. It was home to the Normandy Exchequer in the Middle Ages (a parliament where the county’s noblemen convened). The city flourished from the 13th century onwards with the boom in textile factories and river freight.
As we strolled the cobbled streets, walked along the docks and explored Rouen’s secret spots, the work of Guy de Maupassant sprang to mind. Some students had read his novels such as Une Vie, Boule de Suif and Le Horla. The author was born in Normandy and drew inspiration from Rouen’s city and river landscape to set his stories in. His homeland and Rouen had a special place in the great writer and traveller’s heart.
“Nous avons accompli en quatre jours un voyage que bien peu de Français ont fait, un voyage plein d’accidents, d’émotions, même de dangers, un voyage délicieux à travers le plus adorable pays du monde et le plus propre aux descriptions. (…) Nous avons simplement descendu la Seine, la belle et calme rivière, de Paris à Rouen, dans un de ces petits bateaux à deux personnes qu’on nomme des yoles.(…) Et voici Rouen, Rouen l’opulente, la ville aux clochers, aux merveilleux monuments, aux vieilles rues tortueuses. On ne la peut décrire. Il la faut connaître”.
“In four days, we accomplished a journey that few Frenchmen have done, a journey full of mishaps, emotions, even dangers, a delicious journey through the most adorable land in the world and the best for descriptions. (…) We simply went down the beautiful and tranquil River Seine, from Paris to Rouen, in one of those little 2-person yole boats (…). And here we are in opulent Rouen, the city of bell towers, lavish landmarks and old winding lanes. It cannot be described. It has to be seen.”
Conquering Normandy’s food and drink…
It was great to visit this part of Normandy with students who love their food and trying new things! They weren’t disappointed by all the traditional dishes and produce we found at markets and shops between Cherbourg and Rouen. From the coast to the countryside, we feasted on fresh seafood from the Channel, creamy cheese from free range cows and delicious apples from the Pays d’Auge orchards.
What was our favourite dish? La Dieppoise Marmite! Molluscs, crustaceans and fish cooked in a creamy savoury soup made from butter, cider and crème fraîche. What a treat!
How about an unforgettable dessert? La Teurgoule! It may not sound or look very appetising, but it tastes amazing. It’s a slow-cooked rice pudding in a terracotta ramekin made with sugar and milk then dusted with nutmeg and cinnamon.
A trip to a Normandy cheesemonger to end on a high
The final chapter of our Normandy language stay was a tasting workshop at a Normandy cheesemonger! Unbrielievable! We were given a warm welcome at the huge dairy farm and our students saw just how much work goes into making Normandy AOP cheese to earn the Protected Designation of Origin. The milk comes from cattle that must be fed local grass and fodder. It was an explosion of flavour for everyone, even the biggest cheese fans among us! The Italians have their own fabulous cheese but cheese using cow’s milk is less common: Neufchâtel (the oldest cheese from Normandy!), Livarot, Pont-L’Evêque and classic Camembert! It was fantastic to experience local craftsmanship with my students, although it did tell them to rethink taking any home in their suitcases…
Mia’s Normandy trip from Cherbourg to Rouen is one of the most popular cultural itineraries that Vacances Actives Linguistiques provides for French language stays in France. But there’s so much more to see in Normandy! A short coach trip takes you to the legendary Mont Saint Michel, Giverny and Claude Monet’s gardens or the magical Baie de Somme. Check out all our travel diaries on our blog to inspire your next study abroad experience in France.
Recent Comments