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Normandy travel diary, from Cherbourg to Rouen

Normandy travel diary, from Cherbourg to Rouen

30 Aug 2024 | cultural visits, destinations tips, French culture

A warm welcome and jam-packed with French history

This chapter of our language travel diary takes us back to Normandy to visit two legendary cities between land and sea: Cherbourg and Rouen. Let’s join French teacher Mia and her group of Italian students on their language journey in a region whose history, food and drink conquered her heart. Here are her most magical moments. 

Our language stays in Normandy

Cherbourg: The first unexpected surprise in Normandy

None of us could believe the impressive maritime history and infrastructures in Cherbourg-en-Cotentin. It’s a spell-binding city and I’ll never forget our walk in the medieval district: the narrow lanes, or boëls, are like secret passages tucked away in the city centre. We had a completely different change of scene when we got to the harbour with its stunning views of the Presqu’Île du Cotentin peninsula.

La Cité de la Mer trip

La Cité de la Mer is a former transatlantic ferry port. The beautifully-restored Art Déco building saw millions of passengers set sail for the New World in the late 20th century from here and the museum shares their lives with us. The students were struck dumb by the Redoutable nuclear submarine and Titanic, Return to Cherbourg exhibition about the infamous liner’s stop in the city.

Picnic in Parc Emmanuel Liais

We had a stroll and picnic under the June sunshine in Parc Emmanuel Liais, named after a French explorer, botanist and geographer who was born and died in Cherbourg. We cooled off among the exotic and local species in the botanical garden before exploring rare plant collections and visiting the hothouses. Cherbourg is exotic to say the least, with as many as 1000 palm trees imported by 19th century explorers which thrive in the city’s mild climate.

Fort du Roule and Musée de la Libération

We visited the Musée de la Libération at Fort du Roule on a hilltop with incredible views of Cherbourg. The museum introduces visitors to World War II and the Liberation of Cherbourg with information, images and videos. We learnt how war vehicles and equipment were constantly dropped off in Cherbourg Port before being whisked away on the high seas. The stories and media resources really struck a chord!

Manufacture des Parapluies de Cherbourg umbrella factory and film

Our trip to the Manufacture des Parapluies de Cherbourg was a big hit! The umbrellas have been a cult accessory since starring in the film of the same name directed by Jacques Demy. We saw the traditional methods and craftsmanship that go into making the iconic umbrellas at the factory itself. Each and every umbrella is painstakingly handmade! What a wonderful gift made in France to take home in your suitcase!

Rouen: Historical hotspot, from Joan of Arc to Maupassant

The cobbled streets and historical landmarks make Rouen a real Normandy treasure trove. We unearthed its gems on several trips.

Rouen, the City of Bell Towers

You won’t believe how many bell towers and tall landmarks call Rouen home. Just take Notre-Dame Cathedral with its Gothic architecture and spire (more recent) peaking at 151m, making Rouen’s cathedral the tallest in France and the third tallest in Europe! The students loved it for its sheer size, attention to detail and staggering stained glass windows… but it wasn’t everyone’s cup of tea. Normandy’s very own Maupassant called it a “bronze spike that’s surprising, ugly, strange and out of proportion.” 

We also visited the flamboyant Gothic gem that is Saint-Maclou Church and the show-stopping Saint-Ouen Abbey.

Place du Vieux-Marché and Joan of Arc

Our next stop was Place du Vieux-Marché, where Joan of Arc was executed. It was a golden opportunity to revisit the story behind France’s legendary warrior: Joan was a pious shepherd girl who heard voices telling her to liberate occupied France from English rule. She embraced her destiny and joined the future King Charles VII in Touraine during the Hundred Years’ War, dressed as a man with her hair cut short. She fought in the decisive battle against the English in Orléans which saw Charles VII crowned king at Reims Cathedral in 1429. But she was defeated in Paris, made a prisoner of war, sold to the English and imprisoned at their headquarters in Rouen. She was put on trial for heresy and sentenced to be burnt at the stake! She was burnt alive on May 30th 1431 on Place du Vieux Marché in Rouen. The tragedy and injustice made their mark on the city square and our students’ hearts.

Jardin des Plantes de Rouen

Picnic break at the Jardin des Plantes! After stocking up on nibbles in town, we settled down in a haven of peace home to plants from five continents. The greenhouse is over 170 years old! The students were particularly fascinated by the carnivorous plants… Watching plants eating small insects isn’t your standard entertainment. There’s something magical about the place and we could have spent hours here! What with the aviaries filled with budgies, parrots, king quails, peacocks and turtles roaming free by the canal, everyone enjoyed their time out in a bountiful botanical world!

Following in the footsteps of Guy de Maupassant in Rouen’s streets

Rouen was one of the biggest and most opulent cities in medieval Europe. It was home to the Normandy Exchequer in the Middle Ages (a parliament where the county’s noblemen convened). The city flourished from the 13th century onwards with the boom in textile factories and river freight.

As we strolled the cobbled streets, walked along the docks and explored Rouen’s secret spots, the work of Guy de Maupassant sprang to mind. Some students had read his novels such as Une Vie, Boule de Suif and Le Horla. The author was born in Normandy and drew inspiration from Rouen’s city and river landscape to set his stories in. His homeland and Rouen had a special place in the great writer and traveller’s heart. 

“Nous avons accompli en quatre jours un voyage que bien peu de Français ont fait, un voyage plein d’accidents, d’émotions, même de dangers, un voyage délicieux à travers le plus adorable pays du monde et le plus propre aux descriptions. (…) Nous avons simplement descendu la Seine, la belle et calme rivière, de Paris à Rouen, dans un de ces petits bateaux à deux personnes qu’on nomme des yoles.(…) Et voici Rouen, Rouen l’opulente, la ville aux clochers, aux merveilleux monuments, aux vieilles rues tortueuses. On ne la peut décrire. Il la faut connaître”. 

“In four days, we accomplished a journey that few Frenchmen have done, a journey full of mishaps, emotions, even dangers, a delicious journey through the most adorable land in the world and the best for descriptions. (…) We simply went down the beautiful and tranquil River Seine, from Paris to Rouen, in one of those little 2-person yole boats (…). And here we are in opulent Rouen, the city of bell towers, lavish landmarks and old winding lanes. It cannot be described. It has to be seen.”

Guy de Maupassant

from Paris to Rouen, Notes by two sailors found in a bottle in the water.

Conquering Normandy’s food and drink… 

It was great to visit this part of Normandy with students who love their food and trying new things! They weren’t disappointed by all the traditional dishes and produce we found at markets and shops between Cherbourg and Rouen. From the coast to the countryside, we feasted on fresh seafood from the Channel, creamy cheese from free range cows and delicious apples from the Pays d’Auge orchards.

What was our favourite dish? La Dieppoise Marmite! Molluscs, crustaceans and fish cooked in a creamy savoury soup made from butter, cider and crème fraîche. What a treat!

How about an unforgettable dessert? La Teurgoule! It may not sound or look very appetising, but it tastes amazing. It’s a slow-cooked rice pudding in a terracotta ramekin made with sugar and milk then dusted with nutmeg and cinnamon.

A trip to a Normandy cheesemonger to end on a high 

The final chapter of our Normandy language stay was a tasting workshop at a Normandy cheesemonger! Unbrielievable! We were given a warm welcome at the huge dairy farm and our students saw just how much work goes into making Normandy AOP cheese to earn the Protected Designation of Origin. The milk comes from cattle that must be fed local grass and fodder. It was an explosion of flavour for everyone, even the biggest cheese fans among us! The Italians have their own fabulous cheese but cheese using cow’s milk is less common: Neufchâtel (the oldest cheese from Normandy!), Livarot, Pont-L’Evêque and classic Camembert! It was fantastic to experience local craftsmanship with my students, although it did tell them to rethink taking any home in their suitcases…

Mia’s Normandy trip from Cherbourg to Rouen is one of the most popular cultural itineraries that Vacances Actives Linguistiques provides for French language stays in France. But there’s so much more to see in Normandy! A short coach trip takes you to the legendary Mont Saint Michel, Giverny and Claude Monet’s gardens or the magical Baie de Somme. Check out all our travel diaries on our blog to inspire your next study abroad experience in France. 

Visit France with Vacances Actives Linguistiques
Learn French language wit French cuisine, the perfect match

Learn French language wit French cuisine, the perfect match

12 Jun 2024 | French culture

Getting a taste for French culture and language through its food and drink makes a lot of sense to Vacances Actives Linguistiques!
It’s hard to say no in a country jam-packed with mouth-watering ingredients and dishes that are part of the country’s identity and heritage: “the gastronomic meal of the French” has had UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage status since 2010.

You could call it a recipe for success when it comes to getting French students together to improve their language skills as they learn about the country’s customs and culture. 

Cooking, tasting food, buying top produce and learning cookery techniques: the art of gastronomy makes learning French a piece of cake.

Take a French food tour of Parisian neighbourhoods

Hit the food market in Les Halles in Paris

Les Halles and Le Marais are two leading lights on the Parisian food scene and icons in the capital’s culinary history.

Les Halles market was known as Le Ventre de Paris, as in The Belly of Paris by Emile Zola, and is now a sprawling foodie district where people come to stroll, sample and select the best ingredients to rustle up a tasty meal.

A walk through Les Halles and Le Marais is a golden opportunity for French learners to chat to traders and spice up the everyday experience of going to the market with a shopping list and set budget. 

Cured meat, cheese, baguettes, rustic bread, lunchtime snacks (carottes râpées, céleri rémoulade!), some fruit… in a nutshell, your immersive language class has become a get-together over food. 

Depending on the season, the French group and their guide can turn market produce into a classic French lunch at a cookery workshop or meet up for a picnic in one of the local parks in summer.

The market tour and lunch give French students an insight into the milestone moments in the Parisian culinary history and just how big the food culture in France is: the importance of eating well, the diversity of dishes, products and flavours and how much the French love talking about food!!

French cheese tasting in the 16th arrondissement in Paris

This workshop is the place to brie if you want to put your palates to the test. Visitors at the Parisian cheese shop in the 16th arrondissement learn how different cheeses are made depending on milk type (cow, sheep, goat) before delving into their origins. They learn about cheese in all its glory be it pasteurised, unpasteurised, soft, veiny, hard or with a bloomy rind. There are hundreds of different types of cheese and even more regional variations and ways to store and cook them.

So which do you choose? What makes a good cheese? What’s the right way to eat it?

Our expert guides your tasting journey from the mildest to the strongest cheese during the class. If you’re feeling brave, have a go at a blind tasting at the cheese shop: can you recognise the best-known cheeses in France? 

Students will be served some tasty bread to try Normandy camembert, Touraine goat’s cheese brique and Comté (France’s favourite cheese!) before moving onto Roquefort and eye-watering Époisses! 

You’ll need some breath-freshening gum or a toothbrush after the last couple of cheese samples!!! 

Join a baking or chocolate making workshop in Paris

There’s a sweet note to our gourmet adventure through France. With breakfast croissants, macarons to go with your coffee or tea plus raspberry tart, Paris-Brest and Saint Honoré, French pâtisserie is as famous as its wine!

We give our visitors the chance to experience a baking class followed by a tasting session during their stay. Despite being technically challenging, macarons are a firm favourite: being able to make them yourself is a real luxury!
Or has the croissant class or chocolate workshop tickled your fancy? Whichever you choose, learning new techniques puts the cherry on the cake. 

A regional food tour in France

Shall we say goodbye to Paris and head to another region to explore French gastronomy?
There’s lots to learn in other towns and cities…

Take part in a flammekueche workshop in Strasbourg

Alsace is big on local specialities (and calories) too!

Soak up the region’s food scene with our cookery classes introducing students to the famous flammekueche or tarte flambée in French. 

There’s nothing too tricky here: you need good ingredients, good dough and a good bake to make a flammekueche. Everyone gets their own workstation and ingredients that they can put their own technique and soul into: just add a little care and love to the dish for best results when it comes out of the oven! It’s a great way to get learners working together and chatting as they compete to make the best tarte flambée. A bit of healthy competition, a sprinkling of indulgence and lots of belly laughs make speaking French as easy as pie.

Institut des Frères Lumière à Lyon<br />

Hit the market at Halles Bocuse in Lyon

Institut des Frères Lumière à Lyon<br />
Institut des Frères Lumière à Lyon<br />

No foodie tour of France would be complete without a trip to Lyon, the capital of French gastronomy. The city celebrates food in all its forms, from humble fare to fine dining with the Michelin-starred chef Paul Bocuse at the helm. Lyon is famous for its bouchon eateries serving rib-sticking bistro dishes on check tablecloths and has a wide array of signature dishes for you to sample as you explore the market.

Halles Bocuse is the perfect place to feast your eyes on stalls run by fruit and veg traders, butchers, cheesemongers and more as you fill your basket with classic local dishes and products: cervelle de canuts (cheese dip), saucisson wrapped in brioche, Saint-Marcellin cheese, some good bread and praline tart. It has everything you need for a delicious regional smorgasbord. 

Its foodie tours and workshops are golden language opportunities to help the group bond and work together as well as encourage them to use their skills in a French-speaking environment.

Planning a language experience on the theme of food and drink means the world is your oyster when it comes to destinations, things to do and flavours! Sweet or savoury delights, food and wine pairings for adults, advanced workshops for apprentice chefs etc. 

French gastronomy is the perfect subject to enhance social interaction and help French students feel relaxed and spontaneous as they chat in an immersive environment. Cookery workshops, tastings and meals bring the group together and introduce learners to the culture surrounding the “gastronomic meal” and art of eating well, a pillar of the French identity. 

We love tailoring schedules and experiences to suit the needs and abilities of our adventurers: from novice cooks to apprentice chefs and French levels B2 to A1!

You have everything to gain from this experience… even a few extra pounds 🙂

Visit France and learn French with us
New Year in France: traditional celebrations or something special? 

New Year in France: traditional celebrations or something special? 

19 Feb 2024 | French culture

Every culture and every country around the world has its own way of celebrating New Year’s Eve.
Why do the French call it Saint-Sylvestre?
What are their traditions?
Do they do New Year’s Eve differently in French-speaking countries?
There are two things to remember when it comes to celebrating and soaking up French customs: get your glad rags on and ring in the New Year!

The history of New Year’s Eve

Celebrating New Year’s Eve: it all began in World War I

1915: French soldiers were stuck in the trenches during WWI so the general staff decided to boost their morale. They gave out a bottle of fizz to every four soldiers on the Meuse front with one instruction: to open it at midnight! Alongside the bottle, every soldier was given a hamper with 100g of ham, 75g of jam, an orange, two apples and a cigar. It became an annual event covering the entire western front after that. 

1918: The soldiers took the tradition of celebrating the New Year home with them at the end of the war.

January 1st: a date fit for an emperor!

Why do we celebrate the New Year on January 1st? Because Julius Caesar said so! 

The Roman emperor established the date as the start of the New Year because of its association with Janus, the god of transitions, in Roman culture. 

Ancient Romans celebrated the Saturnalia in the lead-up to New Year’s Day. The celebrations took place during the winter solstice (around December 24th) and people gave each other money and wished each other well! 

The French had to wait until King Charles IX came to the throne for January 1st to become New Year’s Day, after hundreds of years of the Celtic New Year being in April in Europe.

Who is “Saint Sylvestre”?

The French call December 31st “Saint Sylvestre”. Saint Sylvester was the 33rd pope. Catholics believe that the Roman citizen made his name by protecting Timothy, a Christian from Antioch who died a martyr’s death for his faith. Sylvester was made pope in 314 and Christianity was recognised as a religion by the Roman Empire during his reign when Emperor Constantine I converted to it.

New Year’s Eve traditions

“Se mettre sur son 31”

This French idiom goes hand in hand with December 31st: “Se mettre sur son 31” means get your glad rags on, get dressed up. Where the 31 comes from isn’t quite as clear-cut. It may be a deformation of the medieval word “trentain”, a lavish cloth made of three lots of one hundred threads and used to make the finest clothes. Since only wealthy people wore trentain, the rest of the population didn’t know much about the fabric and may have understood it as trente-et-un. “Se mettre sur son 31” or “put on your glad rags” became a common saying to mean you were getting ready for a special occasion.

Mistletoe, kissing and Celts.

Mistletoe is a New Year symbol. It’s a must-have decoration for the holiday season hanging over doors and tables. You kiss beneath the branches for good luck in the New Year. Celebrating New Year under the mistletoe is a Celtic tradition: druids believed the sacred plant had magical powers because it’s evergreen (so it never ages or fades?). It became a lucky charm that is supposed to make women fertile, protect people from evil, bring wealth and prosperity… We’re going to get some mistletoe!

What’s on the New Year’s Eve menu in France? 

For a long time, the blow-out feast over the holiday season was just at Christmas. The NYE banquet began as a light supper with company before midnight mass. People would have a heavier meat-based meal after midnight, making it a “jour gras” or “fat day”.

There may not be a traditional meal for December 31st nowadays but some dishes have become New Year’s Eve signatures. Champagne tends to be served before dinner or to ring in the New Year at midnight. Small pastries, foie gras, oysters, snails, scallops and smoked salmon are among France’s favourite dishes at NYE with the Yule log making a comeback for dessert. 

Institut des Frères Lumière à Lyon<br />

Don’t miss the deadline to wish people a Happy New Year by January 31st!

It’s customary in France to wish friends and family a Happy New Year from January 1st onwards to give them good luck. People used to go and visit their loved ones, workmates, the needy, homeless and sick in the first fortnight of the New Year. Some replaced the somewhat onerous custom with cards to send their best wishes rather than having to go around the houses. They got out of it without looking rude by leaving a card to say Happy New Year at the front desk. The invention of the stamp and spread of printing in Europe meant “carte de voeux” were sent by post.

Top 3 unique New Year’s Eve events in France

Celebrate like royalty at Vaux le Vicomte

Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte puts on a fairytale event for December 31st. An architectural sound and light projection lights up the castle walls in tribute to the château’s inauguration on August 17th 1661 which Nicolas Fouquet organised for the Sun King. Attendees of all ages play games in the French grounds, watch the animal ball in the Musée des Équipages and visit the beautifully decorated rooms. 

Swim in the Côte d’Azur

A dip in the sea is a tradition in Antibes! Locals have flocked to Plage de la Salis beach at 11am for over 20 years to wake them up from the last night’s shenanigans and start the New Year fresh-faced. The Day One d’Antibes association promotes the event and visitors to the region love it. After swimming in water that rarely gets above 15 degrees, the brave souls can warm up at the jazz concert and fireworks in the evening. 

Evening grape harvest in Gers

Now here’s a unique tradition in the Occitan region: a (very) late harvest that sees winemakers, locals and villagers pick the last of the sugary Pacherenc du Vic Bilh grapes in Viella village. The tradition dates back to 1991 when the spring frost meant winemakers had to wait a long time for the fruit to ripen on the vine… until New Year’s Eve! The unique harvest is followed by a communal meal at Château de Crouseilles. Guests pick twelve grapes off the last bunch when the clock strikes midnight!

Celebrating the New Year in France is an opportunity to discover the country in a relatively festive atmosphere, under the lights of Christmas. French New Year’s Eve is more a friendly or family celebration “at home”, but people are going out more and more, especially in cities, to celebrate the passage to the New Year in bars or in public squares… Champagne is always a must!

Our language stays in France
The Lyon Festival of Lights: the visitor guide

The Lyon Festival of Lights: the visitor guide

23 Jan 2024 | cultural events in France, French culture

Millions of people flock to Lyon every year for the city’s popular Festival of Lights. The Capital of the Three Gauls lights up with thousands of candles to put on a magical show for visitors and locals alike on December 8th. It’s a golden opportunity to soak up the fairytale atmosphere as you explore the city at night. Here are some facts and top tips to help you squeeze every last drop out of the Lyon Festival of Lights, the 4th most popular festival in the world!

Our language stays to Lyon

The Festival of Lights in figures

  • 20 kilometres:

That’s the distance between the first installation (usually Lyon Cathedral) and the last (often Hôpital Saint-Joseph Saint-Luc). You can feast your eyes on all the illuminations along the way but be warned, you certainly won’t be alone so keep a cool head! 

  • 2 million people

That’s how many people usually descend on the city for the 4-day event. The Council puts the figure at between 1.8 and 2 million with half from the Rhône region and 100,000 overseas visitors. That makes an average of 500,000 people exploring the streets of Lyon per day. 

  • Millions of tealights

The Festival of Lights is a record-breaker every year: 8 million tealights were sold in the Grand Lyon area in 2014, 12 million were used for a single installation in 2022 called Les Lumignons du Coeur! 

  • The world’s 4th most popular festival

The Festival of Lights is currently the 4th most loved event among its visitors and won the Best Public Event award in 2007!

The history behind the Festival of Lights

A 19th century tradition.

It all began in the 17th century when the plague reached the South of France. On September 8th 1643, Lyon Council began to pray to the Virgin Mary statue at Fourvière Church to spare Lyon from the epidemic. Their prayers were answered and there’s still a pilgrimage on September 8th to remember the event.

The Council was meant to unveil a statue by the sculptor Joseph Fabisch at the top of Fourvière during the pilgrimage on September 8th 1852. But the Saône flooded and delayed the inauguration until… December 8th. The weather had a mind of its own again on that day and put a damper on events. But things brightened up and the locals put candles in their windows to celebrate. The Church did the same and kept Fourvière lit up all night as the locals gazed in wonder. Flares, fireworks and candles: that’s the story behind the Festival of Lights.

A tradition rooted in Lyon’s cultural heritage

The Festival of Lights became Lyon’s official festival in a sign of faith. The custom of putting candles on your windowsill on the night of December 8th spread among families and religions from 1852 onwards.

The city’s mayor, Michel Noir, sparked (pun intended!) the tradition of illuminating Lyon’s landmarks and bringing the city to life with art installations in 1989. The festival has lasted 4 days since 1999 and is devoted entirely to the festivities and hosting millions of visitors.

Lyon and light: they go way back!

This event was meant to happen in Lyon! It ties in perfectly to the city’s history. Lights, sounds, colours… Does cinema come to mind? What about Auguste and Louis Lumière? The brothers who invented cinematography in 1896 in Lyon? Actually, Auguste also invented autochrome, the first colour film development process. 

Let’s not forget André-Marie Ampère, another bright spark from Lyon who became famous for his experiments with the electrical telegraph. A unit of electric current is even named after him: ampere.

Institut des Frères Lumière à Lyon<br />

An international festival

There are lots of reasons to describe the Festival of Lights as an international festival. 

Firstly, it celebrates artists from Lyon and overseas (11 foreign artists out of 37 in 2022) who hail mainly from Europe. 

It’s world famous and millions of visitors from all over the globe flock here to gaze at the interactive installations. 

Last but not least, the artistic sound and light creations go around the planet. The Festival of Light is a real laboratory and fantastic showcase for all the avant-garde, innovative and creative artists involved in illuminations and performance. Other cities have followed in Lyon’s footsteps and established their own Festival of Lights, including Dubai, Turin, Montreal and Rio de Janeiro.

Foreign visitors: here’s your Festival of Lights guide

Local lingo: what’s a lumignon?

They make the magic happen. They’re tealights in holders that the locals call lumignons or lampions. As soon as November comes around, the shops stockpile bags of these iconic ribbed tealights and glass holders. Locals and visitors light the candles and place them on their windowsills or on public squares on the night of December 8th. 

Wrap up warm

It’s cold in Lyon in winter, plus the Saône and Rhône riverbanks make it feel damp. So it’s best to wear the right clothing. Remember that Lyon is near the mountain so you can wear a ski suit… or a chunky jumper… or a flashy puffer to stay warm and toasty as you wander around the city all night!

Enjoy a mulled wine

It’s the festival’s go-to drink to warm your cockles (please drink responsibly). Hot and sweet red wine infused with oranges, ginger, cinnamon, vanilla and star anise. The sweet scent of spices is irresistible! Pick up a bretzel or praline brioche bun to go with it to boost your energy and keep you cosy!

Festival of Lights key sites

The Capital of the Three Gauls (find out more about Lyon’s history) plays host to 4 days jam-packed with installations and sights. Feast your eyes on the artwork and soak up the fairytale atmosphere with streets illuminated by millions of tealights on a 20km route through the city between the Saône and Rhône (with shortcuts in and out of the Pentes de la Croix-Rousse neighbourhood). 

The landmarks and squares set the scene for performances or video mapping, including Place Bellecour, Place des Terreaux, Place des Jacobins, Place de la République and Place des Célestins, Lyon Cathedral, Saint-Paul train station and Parc de la Tête d’or. From the Renaissance district to La Confluence, the entire city puts the spotlight on shows and installations that range from the traditional to the game-changing and unexpected. What’s the highlight of the Festival of Lights? Head up Fourvière hill to drink in views of Lyon from the church…

The work that the council, national and international artists and designers put into creating unique sights to showcase the city’s architecture is what makes the festival what it is. The views of the city at night are a sight for sore eyes for children and adults alike! The Festival of Lights is a unique event when visitors from all over the world can get together and literally invade the Capital of the Three Gauls! It may not be the quietest time to visit the city, but it is an international hotspot that provides a unique showcase for Lyon’s neighbourhoods and heritage! 

Our Language stays in France
The Bouquinistes in Paris

The Bouquinistes in Paris

13 Nov 2023 | French culture

We love the Bouquinistes in Paris because these book stalls are a key part of the Seine banks’ landscape whether you’re on your way somewhere, relaxing on a stroll or visiting the city. The row of book stalls runs for hundreds of metres and people flock here to read, bargain hunt and chat to the managers of these coach green stands. Passersby stop here to find a specific tome or because a cover, vintage poster or unusual title has caught their eye. The Bouquinistes are Parisian landmarks in themselves, treasure chests and time capsules bursting with hidden gems if you take the time to look. 

Our visitors love them and they have had Intangible Cultural Heritage status in France since 2019, so let’s delve into the history of Bouquinistes.  

Our cultural trips to Paris

A few figures: 

  • 3km of book stalls 
  • +/- 230 booksellers in 2022 
  • 900-odd boxes
  • 300,000 antique or contemporary publications
  • 2019: Listed as Intangible Cultural Heritage in France 

Let’s speak “bouquiniste”

Root: “le boucquain”

Bouquiniste comes from the word bouquin, meaning book. It has been spelt this way since the 16th century. Its roots come from Flemish with the medieval Dutch word “boek” and its derivative “boeckin” meaning little book.

It first appeared in the Trévoux dictionary in 1752 which defined it as “sellers of old books, bouquins.”

The boîte: smart design and out of the box

Booksellers store all their merchandise in boîtes (the official technical term) rather than a bookshop or bookcase. The Town Hall allocates booksellers a box that is essentially like a safe. The boxes are specifically designed to melt into the Parisian landscape and match their surroundings. That means the boxes must be coach green to match the Wallace fountains and Morris columns, just like the very first métro. When open, the lid must not exceed 2.1m above ground level so as not to restrict the view for passersby. Most are in zinc-plated wood, patinated and even a little rusty from the fog and rain, but the boxes have withstood the elements. Some of them have been here for over 120 years!

Then it’s up to every bookseller to have their own signature, design and display style. A little red heart for must-read books, a cute gold peg to hang a new release on a string… It’s all about the boxes being in their element, whimsical and part of the Seine’s riverbanks. 

What does being a Bouquiniste involve?

If you want to be a Bouquiniste in Paris and have one or more boxes, you need to apply to the Town Hall for a 5-year tenancy contract. The outdoor booksellers don’t have to pay anything during the contract term: no rent or taxes but they must open their stall at least 4 days a week except in the event of bad weather. 

There are strict criteria regarding the items that a Bouquiniste can sell as a book stall “is and must fundamentally remain a book shop.” In other words, the stand is not the place for knick-knacks or souvenirs, despite the temptation to give into demand from tourists. That means a Bouquiniste can sell new or second-hand books, vintage newspapers and posters, etchings, postcards, vintage stamps, coins, medals, antiques and Paris souvenirs (the must-have Eiffel Tower keyring). 

Bouquiniste riverbank visitor trail

This open-air bookshop runs nearly 3km along the railings on both banks of the Seine. Here’s where to find them: 

  •  Right bank: between Pont Marie and Pont des Arts, Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville and Quai du Louvre
  •  Left bank: between Pont Sully and Pont Royal, Quai de la Tournelle and Quai Voltaire. 

The route is ideal for a stroll, browsing the green boxes and soaking up the architectural wonders along this part of the river: the Louvre, Institut de France, Hôtel de la Monnaie, île de la Cité, Notre-Dame, Conciergerie and more.

History of the Bouquinistes: the ad-lib book trade

The dawn of the printing press in 1450 and boom in the book trade saw small booksellers appear on the banks of the Seine: colporteurs who carried a basket around their neck or shoulders and estaleurs with trestles and canvases selling second-hand books on the riverbanks. Their meeting point and favourite place to sell was Pont-Neuf, built in 1606. 

But not everyone liked this ad-lib and unregulated trade, especially bookshops, so they campaigned for booksellers on the Pont-Neuf to be banned in 1649! It helped reduce unfair competition and restrict the spread of certain satirical gazettes and political or religious pamphlets which were on open display at these little Pandora’s boxes.

The Bouquiniste didn’t become a recognised profession until the First Empire when the administration listed it on the Paris Trade Register. 

They almost disappeared during the reign of Napoleon III when Baron Haussmann tried to rid the riverbanks of them for his urban landscape projects. But the Bouquinistes stood firm: they got the right to sell and leave their goods overnight at the retail point as well as the council officially recognising their boîtes. 

Bouquinistes, cultural references and heritage

Bouquinistes and their book stalls appear in countless films and TV programmes, old and new, French and foreign. Just take the 1959 film The Magnificent Tramp starring Jean Gabin, Charade with Audrey Hepburn and Cary Grant walking along the riverbank, the daydreaming American Gil played by Owen Wilson in Midnight in Paris, Amélie and the cult series Emily in Paris.

The coach green boxes even inspired a Chanel catwalk show: Karl Lagerfeld brought the rows of book stalls to life, lining the catwalk for his 2018/2019 autumn-winter collection under the Grand Palais’ glass dome.

Watch the catwalk show

Paris, the only city in the world where a river
flows between two rows of books

Blaise Cendrars.

The Bouquinistes are part of Paris’ cultural and literary heritage: whether you’re a local, walker or visitor, it’s always worth stopping to chat to one of these passionate booksellers or dig around one of the boxes to unearth a souvenir, a unique copy of your favourite book, something to join your stamp or coin collection or a pretty souvenir from Paris. 

In recent developments, the 2024 Olympics and the Olympic torch parade through the streets of Paris have put the existence of Bouquinistes under threat. Their presence poses a safety risk and the rosy image this open-air bookshop has may well disappear. But remember, time after time, no matter the event or government, the booksellers have stood firm and managed to protect their stalls! 

So make the Bouquinistes a must-see sight as you explore the capital on your next language stay in Paris. 

Our cultural trips in France
Visiting the Braderie de Lille

Visiting the Braderie de Lille

30 Sep 2022 | cultural events in France, French culture

Want to visit France while taking advantage of the country’s major popular events?

The Braderie de Lille is an opportunity not to be missed!

Go to Lille for a trip to the North of France, to the largest flea market in Europe. For a weekend, Lille becomes a vast bazaar of flea markets and mussels and chips!

A unique festive event that gives travellers the opportunity to learn the basics of flea markets and negotiation, and to discover the cultural and culinary traditions shared by thousands of visitors from France and around the world.

More about the city of Lille ? Read the travel book of Magda!

The Braderie de Lille in a few figures:

  • 10000 slots, totally free!
  • 100 km of stalls
  • 2.5 million visitors, bargain hunters, strollers, street vendors in 2019
  • 33 hours of non-stop clearance sale
  • Every 1st weekend of September

What is the origin of the Braderie de Lille?

The history of the Braderie de Lille goes back to the Middle Ages (first mentioned in 1127), we then spoke of “frank fair” when the town council of Lille authorised merchants from outside to come and sell without paying tax.

In the 16th century, the braderie became a large garage sale when servants were authorised to sell the objects accumulated in their master’s attics, once a year between sunset and sunrise.

This popular event in Lille has been represented several times by various artists, including the romantic painter Watteau, who devoted a now cult work to it: La Braderie de Lille in 1800.

How to prepare for the Braderie de Lille?

The Braderie de Lille can be summed up in 3 components: antiquing, popular festival and mussels and chips. Travel advice: a well-prepared bargain hunter is armed with patience, good shoes, an umbrella, and a shopping cart! Because the Lille weather in September can be capricious and disrupt the party.

At the clearance sale, you can find absolutely everything, from small everyday objects at 1 euro, to rare pearls, furniture and works of art not necessarily recognized, which are the delight of professional antique dealers and collectors. So much so that the event attracts curious people and experts from all over the world.

Lille, a city where the art of negotiation reigns

Negotiating the price of objects is part of the game at the Lille sale. The price is “indicative”! So you have to arm yourself with audacity and a gift of the gab, and engage in haggling in order to conclude the best transaction. As the people of Lille say: We speak the language of the banknote here!

The culture of commerce is anchored in the history of Lille, which has developed thanks to its function as a market place and trade since the Middle Ages.

Find the right way to buy well at the Braderie de Lille

The Braderie takes up the whole city, the linear stands cover kilometres of streets in the centre of Lille. So you have to be a strategist when you are a buyer and know the geography of the clearance sale well. You should know that each neighbourhood has its own “style” of objects and sellers. For example, for furniture lovers, it is better to go to the boulevards Louis XIV and de la Liberté; for toys, the appointment is mainly at Saint Sauveur station; in the realm of second-hand clothing, the Lebas park and the Foch and Dutilleul squares are transformed into a vast empty dressing room!

You inevitably find your favourite neighbourhood at the Braderie de Lille, and you always find something to bring back! Better to anticipate the space in the suitcase!

Traditions and attractions of the Braderie de Lille

One-upmanship on mussels and chips.

This is the essential dish for any participant in the Braderie de Lille. Traditional and fast, the favourite dish of bargain hunters and vendors is prepared by all the restaurants in the city, and is served on banquet tables. Sharing, feasting together at the same table: this is the soul of this popular festival.

The marinière mussels are number 1 in sales, but the Maroilles sauce holds its own, and delights the most seasoned palates. On average, 500 tons of mussels are cooked during the sale.

So what to do with the leftovers?

The people of Lille definitely like to outbid everyone else! Instead of being thrown away, the shells are carefully piled up to form the highest mound possible, setting new records every year. Head to Place Rihour to see the most spectacular piles of mussels.

And after ?

The mussel shells are finally collected and processed to be transformed into slabs of tiling… Nothing is thrown away, everything is recycled!

An extraordinary banquet at the Natural History Museum

La Braderie is synonymous with convivial banquets for bargain hunters and vendors… as well as for animals! Visitors can come for free to visit the toucan, bear cub, emu and other gorillas, positioned around a table in the main room of the Natural History Museum, an original way to discover animals in an unusual environment, seated to honour the tradition of the Braderie de Lille banquet.

Meet at La Vieille Bourse, for the book sale

Welcome to booksellers’ paradise! What an impression of grandeur on entering the Vieille Bourse de Lille, a remarkable building made up of 24 merchant houses. Its majestic and colourful facades, its lion heads and garlands, its Flemish mannerist architecture, combining Renaissance and Baroque, reveal all the wealth of 17th century merchants.

During this weekend of clearance sale, bulk paperbacks and beautiful books of all kinds cover the stalls arranged in this prestigious place. Our travellers and learners of French will be able to make great finds and slip a souvenir book into their luggage, perfect for continuing to work on the language of Molière…

Ready to take a trip to the country of the flea market?

The Vacances Actives agency offers the best welcome (and the best tables to devour local mussels and chips!) to travellers learning French. In Lille, we speak French, ch’ti, and the language of the nego! But travellers will not be the only ones to decipher the dialogues of Lille, as the Braderie attracts visitors from all over the world!

Write to contact@vacancesactiveslinguistiques  to prepare a colourful stay in Hauts de France!

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